Wannabe Kiwi.

The Traveler's Goodbye.

2009-12-10T23:55:00.003-05:00

Goodbyes always seem so dramatic in the movies. Eyes are filled with tears, men tend to run along the side of trains and the weather just happens to be dreary just like that foggy night in Casablanca with trench coats and the ever famous farewell line: “Here’s looking at you, kid.”

These scenes are never tearjerkers for me. I wouldn’t necessarily classify myself as “movie crier” at all, but the whole concept of saying goodbye is often overly portrayed as melodramatic.

I’ve been confident about my opinion on this sappy subject for years until, unfortunately, a few weeks ago.

I wiped away tears while taking the elevator down to the lobby of my apartment building. I needed to throw bags of trash into the dumpster, bags filled with a pair of my worn converse, disregarded scribbles of class notes and maps that had been pinned to my walls for months – basically anything I could trash in order to lighten my luggage.

I was focused on moving out of my flat in time to catch a flight to the South Island of New Zealand where I would be traveling for the following weeks.

As I walked into the lobby, I saw the tear-stained faces of the people I spent the last five months getting to know. The people from countries scattered around the world and all across America that were so different from me, but quickly became my best friends.

I didn’t decide to study abroad to make new friends or meet people, I wanted to see the world and become familiar with the country.

I am satisfied with my relationship with New Zealand, I immersed myself into the culture and traveled more within the country in five months than I have around the U.S. my entire life, but during the last days, it wasn’t the relationship with the country that concerned me, it was ending the relationships with the people I shared the time.

So I walked to and from the dumpster without acknowledging my emotional friends and headed back up to my flat to grab my bags, along with my composure.

It’s not easy accepting the fact that the world is a large place and you may never see these people ever again.

Yes, the Internet allows us to Skype, email and easily keep in touch, but the understanding sits in the back of our minds that the bond will never be same.

Once I was able to get my emotions under control, I joined my group of friends in the lobby for the final farewells.

Most goodbyes are awkward. No one ever knows the right words to say, but I’ve realized now that most things are better left unsaid.

That unsatisfied, incomplete feeling will always exist after a sincere goodbye and I recognize that there is nothing one can say or do to fulfill it.

So we all cried and hugged and sometimes didn’t say a word while onlookers stared at us, most not able to comprehend the situation as it is something that the majority of people have never experienced and may never will.

Leaving and losing such valuable relationships is not an experience I would recommend to others, but it is a part of traveling that one cannot avoid.

After returning home to my family and friends, I still feel a bit of emptiness and I’m only now realizing that it will never go away, but only be ignored, as the memories are more important. So far it seems easier to remember than to miss.

I was reading a book during the end of my time abroad and posted a quote from it on my wall for inspiration and would now recommend it to any other traveler who inevitably faces the final goodbye.

“So many people enter and leave your life. Hundreds of thousands of people! You have to keep the door open so they can come in, but it also means you have to let them go.”

-Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close by Jonathan Safran Foer

A late Halloween recap

2009-12-02T16:24:00.005-05:00

The month of October was gone before I knew it. The semester was quickly coming to an end, which meant exams were fast approaching and although we weren’t speaking about it, we all knew in the back of our minds that we would soon be saying our goodbyes.

Back home, the excitement for Halloween builds up weeks before the final night. Decorations are displayed across the aisles in grocery stores, battery-powered singing bats appear on porches along with mock cobwebs on the bushes and of course costume ideas are discussed daily. Halloween may even be the biggest holiday for university students, it’s right up there with St. Patrick’s Day and Cinco de Mayo – basically just another excuse to celebrate alcohol.

This year, I was sitting with friends on a blanket in Albert Park enjoying the sunshine when it was brought up that it was the 31^st of October. We planned on going to town that evening, but hadn’t necessarily prepared any costumes. A few ideas floated around until we decided to dress up as our guy friends. We have a close group of unique friends each with very distinguishable characteristics, so it wouldn’t be difficult to imitate them.

That night, we snuck into rooms to steal their clothes and supplies for our costumes. We got ready in secret and revealed ourselves altogether – it was obvious to everyone who we were impersonating.

Roberta dressed as our Maori friend Barry. She wore his signature hat and vest combo with a stain down the front of his white shirt and didn’t put down the Diesel (Burbon and Coke) can all night.

Audrey had crazy hair held in place with a red bandana and plaid button down shirt. She wore a thick hemp necklace and enthusiastically babbled about the environment all night, perfectly imitating Mason from Seattle.

Kristen successfully stole our Fijian friend Tim’s “Bula skirt” and brown vest. She even carried around a laundry basket to represent his frequent trips to “do laundry.”

Annie perfectly portrayed Mark with basic khakis and a full beard. She even chewed on hard spaghetti noodles for the full effect.

I dressed as my Norwegian friend Mads. I stole one of his signature cardigans and wore it with a beanie and bright wayfarer sunglasses. I changed my pants three different times to find the right pair, and each time they got brighter and tighter, ending with a skinny cut turquoise pair.

"O for awesome!"

2009-11-29T00:52:00.005-05:00

“O for awesome!” is a common phrase used to express a deeper feeling of “Sweet As” and when your response toward the happening is greater than just plain awesome.

Surprisingly, kiwi’s are generally intelligent people. They may jump off of tall towers with rubber bands strapped to their feet and drive on the wrong side of the road, but they know that awesome is not spelled with an “o”.

So, where did this popular expression originate?

On October 10, 1992, Olympic heavyweight boxing champion David Tua appeared on a celebrity version of New Zealand’s Wheel of Fortune.

When his turn arrived, he aggressively spun the wheel and proudly asked for an “O… for awesome!”

Ever since the show aired, the phrase has stuck and its popularity continues to grow across the land of the long white cloud.

And now, thanks to Tua, I have my favorite New Zealand souvenir that will not make sense to most, if not all, Americans who see it.

Reuniting.

2009-11-24T16:21:00.006-05:00

Skyped with my best friends the other day and it felt so relieving to finally be able to speak altogether face-to-face once again. They are a main factor that helps me to realize why leaving New Zealand and returning home will be okay.

The first goodbye.

2009-11-03T20:00:00.006-05:00

My Kiwi flatmates (Anna, Jess and Lynelle) all move out tomorrow. It is going to be strange not having them here during these last weeks and I am not looking forward to it. I have become so used to being around them while they make fun of my accent or the things I eat or basically anything American thing I do. I am not ready to live in a quiet apartment and face the reality that I may never see them again.

Last night, to celebrate the end of their year in Auckland, we went out for dinner and got Magnum ice cream bars for dessert. This was my first Magnum even after hearing much praise from international students and kiwi's alike. I was not disappointed, but glad I did not discover this calorie-filled delicacy until the end of my time here.

When I returned to my room that night, I found a nice farewell gift from my flatties:

The Summit of Mt. Doom

2009-11-03T19:03:00.008-05:00

After arriving in Wellington, Mark and I drove to Whakapapa Village with plans to hike the Tongariro Crossing. The weather forecast didn't sound too good, but we decided to attempt the tramp anyway the next morning.

We cooked dinner and then watched Into the Wild on the laptop while drinking hot chocolate and eating gingernuts --- my new favorite treat. After a cold night sleeping in the car at a campsite, we woke up early the next morning to start our hike.

The Tongariro Crossing is a world-renowned 18.5 kilometer trek from one side to the other. Because of the poor weather forecast, we planned on hiking a small portion and turning around once the clouds rolled in.

As we were hiking closer to Mt. Ngauruhoe ("Mt. Doom"), Mark made the comment that it really didn't look that big.

"We could summit that," he said.

"Yeah, definitely," I replied with obvious sarcasm.

Once we reached the bottom of the mountain, he turned and said "Alright, you ready?"

Ready for what? I had no idea he was serious about climbing this mountain, but I couldn't back out now. So, I hesitantly followed in his steps up the snowy ridge.

A few times after some nerve-racking slips on the ice, I became extremely uncomfortable and just wanted to turn around, but I tried to stay composed and continued to follow Mark up.

When we finally reached the top, it was all worth it. The clouds had covered the majority of the peak at this point, but we were able to see over them for a short period of time and view the boundless National Park below us.

It's funny how familiar I thought I had become with this country, before even standing on its other half.

2009-11-01T19:28:00.001-05:00

Nov. 16th - 20th:

After receiving an invite from a friend that was too good to refuse, I booked a flight to Christchurch and made my way, for the first time, to the South Island.

I packed the necessities into my backpack and made my way to the airport for the cheap flight I booked as a "carry-on only" passenger. The man at the desk took one look at my bag and requested $80 without explanation. Apparently it was too big to fit in the overhead compartment which I understood after attempting to squeeze it in the imitation box at the check-in line.

I desperately pleaded for him to let me go because I could not possibly throw away $80 to an apathetic airline. He continued to refuse so I desperately rearranged my pack, pulling on every strap possible to shrink it down in size, and comfortably tucked my sleeping bag under my arm. After holding up the line behind me and causing the man much annoyance, he waved me on free of charge.

When I arrived in Christchurch, Mark had already been traveling for three days and he picked me up in our rental car. He had found a deal to rent a car for $1 a day as long as you picked it up in Christchurch and returned it in Auckland. We now had the next six days to explore New Zealand before getting me back to my 2 o'clock class on Thursday afternoon.

We immediately made our way to the west coast, breaking to sleep once at a pull-off point on the side of the road. Once we arrived, we headed North, frequently stopping to see anything and everything we desired.

Mark drove the whole way. We decided not to purchase the car insurance, so I was perfectly happy letting him stay behind the wheel. Along the trip, our glove box became the storage unit for the variety of brochures, pamphlets, maps and guidebooks we collected. Since the remote areas of New Zealand (basically the entirety of the South Island) don't have radio stations, I read aloud from the booklets while he drove.

We camped wherever we were when night fell and Mark cooked some great pasta dinners on the camping stove. We woke up early each morning, drank a warm drink, ate some muesli and headed on to our next destination.

Kia birds are one of few alpine parrots in the world and it can only be found on the South Island. We met this guy at a look out point on my second day on the island. He was not the slightest bit shy.

Fox Glacier

After visiting Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers, we drove to Gillespies Beach to camp for the night. When we got there, the rain cleared and we arrived just in time to catch the sunset. We sat next to the fire, ate dinner and drank wine while watching the sun go down over the water.

We arrived at Lake Matheson early the next morning to catch the reflection of Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman in the calm water.

Then we ventured on and saw the pancake rocks in Punakaiki and hiked the Truman Track down to the beach.

We continued north to the Abel Tasman, stopping along the way to cross New Zealand's longest swing bridge at 110 meters long suspending over the Buller Gorge.

After hiking a little of the Abel Tasman track and relaxing on the golden sand at Kaiteriteri Bay, we drove east into rain to sleep in Nelson for the night before catching the interisland ferry the next morning. Because of the bad weather, we splurged and payed $12 to sleep in huts at the Pelorus Outdoor Center campground. There were six two-person huts that shared showers (with warm water!), bathrooms, a kitchen, and common area with a fireplace.

The main room was an old school house so it had a large open area with old couches and chairs. The whole place may sound luxurious, but there was no heating in the huts where we slept on thin mattresses on top of wood planks, mice ran freely around the old kitchen, and the cobwebs on the ceilings paralleled the dirt on the floor. At the time, it was a refreshing sanctuary and I would return in a heartbeat.

While we were there, one of the other huts was shared by two Australian fisherman. Neville and Steve were visiting New Zealand to fish for trout. We drank tea and they entertained us late into the night with hilarious stories about their lives in Australia. 72-year-old Neville bounced around and told us about living all over the world. I would have never imagined a man so old to have that much energy and enthusiasm. He explained to us that over the past decade, each time he celebrates a birthday he takes a year off of his life instead of adding one on. This idea is one I do not want to forget as I get older.

Steve was quite a bit younger and in his 50s. He told us he even has trouble keeping up with Neville. He explained that Neville has taught him to laugh more and as he gets older he has learned to take life less seriously.

It was great talking to these old fisherman and I can't say I've ever experienced anything like it. One thing Neville said while talking about his travels around the world is a thought that I want keep in mind while my time here is New Zealand is slowly coming to an end:

"It is the hopeful journey that is more important than the arrival home."

So, the next morning our journey "home" (to Auckland) continued and we hopped on the Interisland ferry to return to the North Island.

More to come about adventures in the North Island on the last day of the trip...

"My mate, Marmite!"

2009-10-26T15:17:00.004-04:00

A travel column for The Appalachian, App State's student newspaper:

http://theapp.appstate.edu/content/view/5602/56/

Vagabond and Beyond

Monday, 26 October 2009

Beer sludge for the open-minded traveler

by KELSEY OHLEGER

I think it is safe to presume that college students love beer.

They love drinking it: in plastic red cups, out of holes on the side of the can and through homemade funnels.

They love playing with it: beer pong tournaments, endless card games and chugging contests.

They love promoting it: neon signs hung in cluttered apartments, logos on worn-out t-shirts and embroidered on sweat-stained ball caps.

I have recently learned of a way to take this passion a step further by eating it.

Well, not necessarily eating beer, but more of byproduct of the drink that is popular here in the South Pacific.

It can be purchased at any supermarket and most convenience stores and comes in a variety of sizes of plastic jars with red caps.

This New Zealand delicacy is known as Marmite.

After beer is brewed, concentrated yeast sludge is left coating the bottom of the barrel. This thick, dark, tar-like substance is then processed and packed with salt, vitamins and extra ingredients before pressed into a jar and sold to kiwis and other daring individuals.

My native New Zealand flatmates can’t seem to describe the flavor other than just plain “tasty.”

Generously buttered toast with a thin layer of Marmite spread on top is an enjoyable snack that they’ve been eating since they were old enough to chew solid food.

But for Americans, it’s not as appetizing and is repeatedly described as “salty” and “bitter.”

“It tastes like salty dirt,” Boston native Kristen Keaney said. Keaney has been living and studying in New Zealand for four months and refuses to eat Marmite.

“If I need to coax myself into to eating something, I’m not meant to eat it,” she said.

I tried the spread within the first few days I arrived here. After smearing about half a teaspoon on a piece of toast with butter, I took a small bite while keeping an open mind.

It has a sharp, unusual taste with a slight meaty flavor, although it’s 100% vegetarian.

I have continued to eat it this way while remembering the fact that there is some aspect of it that kiwi’s adore.

Now, four months later, my thin layer has turned into a solid, gooey coating across a piece of multigrain toast.

Like my flatmates, I can’t tell you why I enjoy the spread and or why it is such a satisfying snack, but I like it.

I’m just glad I was able to keep an open mind and try it. I think this mind-set is one that every traveler should maintain while in a foreign environment.

You do not have to like every entity of that culture, but you will be more apt to enjoy it if you approach an experience without negative expectations.

Picture Perfect

2009-10-22T02:51:00.002-04:00

A travel column for The Appalachian, App State's student newspaper:

Vagabond and Beyond

Wednesday, 21 October 2009

10 Simple Tips for Travel Photography

by Kelsey Ohleger

Every traveler should document his or her trip through photography. Whether to share your experience with those back home, relive personal memories or make some quick cash (Google “travel photo contests” and you will not be disappointed), taking pictures, a lot of pictures, should be a priority.

In this technological age with affordable cameras, no one has the excuse to not be a photographer. As long as you have a basic digital camera and the willingness to be creative, your pictures will look like those found in National Geographic in no time.

Just follow these ten simple tips and you will soon have your favorite pictures to last a lifetime.

1. Get acquainted.

You don’t have to sit down and read through the massive instruction book, but most digital cameras have creative tools that can give your photos that artistic edge. Skim the text and then play with the functions in your free time. Whether it be on the plane, train, bus, boat or camel en route to your next destination, make sure you know the ins and outs of the camera before your arrival.

2. Always be ready and raring.

After hours of becoming familiar with your camera, the battery is most likely running low. Get into the habit of putting your battery on the charger whenever you walk into the room. If traveling overseas, be sure to have outlet adapters so you won’t miss out on any great pics due to a dead battery. And never forget to grab the camera (with the battery inside!) each time you leave your room.

3. Invest in protection.

Although your camera may fit perfectly snug in the back pocket of your Levi’s, that will not shield it from the wear and tear of travel. Look for a case with a sturdy outer cover that will provide protection if dropped on a rock in the Grand Canyon or fallen on when skiing the Alps.

4. Be flashy.

Camera flashes are not only for indoors, they can be useful in all types of settings. While shooting outdoors, the sun is a major deciding factor on the outcome of a picture. Its harshness can create awkward shadows on your subject, but using the flash can eliminate these dark areas. If the majority of light is coming from behind the subject, such as a picture in front of a sunset, always use the flash to avoid a dark silhouette.

Also don’t get too accustomed to using the flash, cloudy days and early morning pictures have great lighting that can create a soft, natural glow.

5. Get close.

Getting close can reveal amazing details of texture or emotion. Pick one element and make it the main focal point of the picture. Then, take one step back and click the picture (most camera’s will take a blurry picture if they’re held any closer). Also, the closer you are the less you need to use your zoom. Zooming results in low resolution and eliminates an interesting angle. So burn those few extra calories by walking right up to your focal point for your snapshot.

6. Get some action.

Adding a little glimpse of life to your photos makes them realistic and interesting. Find some small facet of action within your lens when snapping a picture. Children running across a famous street or a bird flying in the sunset of a beach will give the photo an extra charm to make it original and your own.

7. Don’t be vertically challenged.

It seems that many of us forget to rotate the camera to its side, but the truth is many things look better vertical. So don’t forget to turn that camera sideways for the Eiffel Tower or anything else that stands perpendicular to the horizon.

8. Don’t be camera shy.

While shots of the landscape and historical matter are important to have in your photo albums, pictures that you are in will more likely become the ones you will cherish. If traveling in a small group, avoid take pictures with an outstretched arm that cut off the top of someone’s head. Instead, whenever you see someone administering this technique, offer to take their picture and ask them to take one in return. This method is also extremely rewarding while traveling alone.

9. Learn to use a simple photo editor

A few simple clicks of the mouse can turn a good picture into a great picture. Use your computer’s existing software (Mac’s iPhoto works fine) or download a program to get started (Google’s Picasa is a free, basic option that is a good start for beginners).

Play with the contrast, brightness, saturation and sharpness to find what you think increases the appeal of a picture.

10. Take a lot of pictures.

Make sure to have invested in a large memory card that can hold a lot of pictures, and just keep clicking! The great thing about digital cameras is the ability to delete the bad ones later on. So take as many pictures as you possible can to capture all of the great moments you experience while on your travels.

The Miss List.

2009-10-14T23:38:00.003-04:00

I continuously hear my international friends talk about what they miss about home. Kristen misses steak and cheese subs from Grumpy's restaurant in Massachusetts. Nicklas misses thick bread from Sweden. Elizabeth misses pilates classes back at school in Iowa. Mads misses watching Premier League matches and drinking beer on Saturday afternoons in Norway. And of course everyone misses family and friends.

But I haven't thought too much about what I miss. I think I am just too wrapped up in this country and culture that I don't consider all of the reasons I love my home. So here are a few things that help me look forward to returning:

Brynn & Missy (Of course my dogs are at the top of this list. The rest is in no particular order)
Spin classes at Mt. Mitchell
Friends that listen to the same music as me
Running with Anna
Having a washer and dryer in my apartment
Sleeping in a bed with multiple pillows
Jumping off of waterfalls in Boone
Recycling (New Zealand may be an extremely green and environmentally aware country, but I have seen very few recycle bins here)
Having strangers say "Bless you" when you sneeze
Planning Halloween costumes and parties
Reading a hardcopy of The Appalachian
Leaves changing colors during Fall in the mountains of Boone
Wireless internet
"Simply Orange" juice
Falling asleep with the T.V. on
Wearing sweatpants and hoodies to class
Greek salad and focaccia bread from Tony's (and walking into the restaurant and seeing at least 10 people you know)
Having more than seven television channels
Watching football (Home games at ASU and Redskins games on T.V.)
Poundtown flag football
Driving my jeep

Now, once I return home I can't imagine what my list of things I miss about New Zealand is going to look like. It will probably very, very long...

"Aw shit, you're beached as!"

2009-10-10T00:10:00.004-04:00

Ever wonder what happens when a whale washes up on a New Zealand beach?

This video is a good opportunity to learn the Kiwi lingo and have a good laugh at its ridiculousness.

Gold in the Land of Oz.

2009-10-06T19:28:00.018-04:00

After flying back from Fiji, I couldn't just spend the rest of the break in Auckland, so I joined five others and flew to the Gold Coast of Australia

We stayed for eight days in the Silvershore Apartments where each room had a full kitchen, large balcony and floor-to-ceiling windows.

We devoted the majority of our vacation lying on the beach or by the pool, and spent our nights lounging on the balcony. Most of the nights we cooked for each other and made big family-style meals, but we also indulged in seafood a couple of times.

Dinner out during our first night in Oz

Lounging on the beach outside our apartments

We had to steal this trolley to transport all of our groceries

Marc and Mads enjoying our view from the balcony

Our apartments were located just outside of a beach known as Surfers Paradise, so we all decided it was the perfect opportunity to learn to surf. I snowboard and spent many years skimboarding during family vacations, so I figured surfing would come pretty easy for me. I mean, it doesn't look too hard, right? Well, I was wrong.

After suiting up in wetsuits (it is Australia, but it's also the Winter there) we took our boards to the beach, layed them in the sand and learned all of the typical instructions (except how to stand up). We were finally told to take the boards into the water to catch waves while lying on our stomach or knees. I was frustrated because all I wanted to do was ride a wave while standing up on my board, but I soon learned this would not be as easy as I thought. Steering a longboard through the water while balancing on your knees was enough of a challenge.

After quite a few wipeouts and a belly full of saltwater, we came into shore for more instruction in the sand. We practiced popping up on our feet and learned the art of paddling before taking the boards back into the water. I stood up a few times, but would not consider it a successful morning of surfing. The boys seemed to stand up so easily while the girls continued to flop around in the water.

We all returned for a second lesson later on the week, even though our bodies were still sore from the beatings we took the first day in the water. This time the instructor reinforced the ideas of standing up and paddling, but also introduced turning. Once I was comfortable standing up, turning came pretty easily because you use the same movements as you would on a snowboard.

I felt much more accomplished that second day; it is so rewarding once you're able to comfortably stand up. Marc, Mads and I were so hooked that we even rented boards for a third day of surfing.

It took a lot patience and determination, so now I hope it's a hobby I'll be able to keep up with every time I am close to the ocean.

Another highlight of Australia was a day trip to the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.

There, we watched multiple shows about dingos, koalas, wallabies (Rocko's Modern Life, anyone?), crocodiles, snakes, birds and kangaroos. We even had the opportunity to feed kangaroos, which was my favorite part. They were very laid-back, food oriented animals with slimy tongues.

Interesting Kangaroo Fact #1: They are the only large animal that move by hopping
Interesting Kangaroo Fact #2: On land, kangaroos can only move their back legs together (to hop), but in the water (roos are actually good swimmers) they can kick each leg independently.
Interesting Kangaroo Fact #3: As soon as a joey is born, kangaroos will mate again. They are basically permanently pregnant.

Koalas are cute and cuddly creatures, except for their razor-sharp claws

Australia is home to the most poisonous snake in the world...

Allison feeding a little roo

Experiencing the slimy kangaroo tongue

After all of our surfing lessons and bonding with kangaroos, we were able to fit a little experimentation with the Aussie nightlife into our busy schedules. On the last night, we joined a "Wicked Club Crawl" with other students and travelers and explored multiple bars and clubs around Surfers Paradise.

The group

Elizabeth and me

Lili and Mads with his Michael Jackson glove

So overall, I think we experienced the three most important things about Australia: surfing, kangaroos and Aussie nightlife.

Also, I have now been to five countries in my lifetime: the U.S.A, the Bahamas, New Zealand, Fiji and Australia. And I have a strange feeling that list is going to keep growing and growing...

And one more thing: Is there anyone out there reading?

Bula! Bula!

2009-09-27T21:57:00.023-04:00

Sept. 6 - Sept. 11:

5 Americans, 3 Frenchies, 1 Canadian, 1 Mexican, 1 Norwegian and 1 Kiwi spent five days in Fiji. Here's what happened...

We we were greeted at the Nadi airport (pronounced Nan-di) with Bula beads and were excited to arrive despite the warm drizzle outside. After hearing it many times, we finally learned that "BULA!" meant "Hello" .... and "Goodbye," "Welcome," "Thank You," "Whats Up?" "Bless You!" (after a sneeze), "Cheers!" and basically whatever else you want it to mean (except for "What time is it?" the people here have no need for that. Everyone lives according to "Fiji Time," a concept we quickly became familiar with).

At the Anchorage Resort, we spent our first full day lying in hammocks, playing volleyball in the pool and kayaking in the ocean, all while increasing our risk of skin cancer.

We then took a taxi into the local town to pick up fruits, veggies and other essentials. On the ride, I saw how although Fiji is full of beautiful landscapes with tall green mountains, clear blue water and white sandy beaches, the people who live here lead lives that can't be compared to what visitors see in the resorts. Most families live in small huts in an extreme state of poverty. The Fiji Poverty Report actually states that 25% of the households cannot afford a basic standard of living. They often do not have land or permission to use it, live in very poor houses, and have nutritionally inadequate diets.

Along with the overwhelming amounts of poverty, the country currently has no established government. In April, the Fijian President suspended the constitution and dismissed the judicial system while assuming complete governance within the country.

But despite these hardships, the people always manage to greet you with a loud "Bula!" and beaming smile.

While in town, we stocked up on the cheapest fruits and vegetables I have ever purchased from the local market. Under a large, open-air pavilion, a mass of booths were intricately positioned, each selling a variety of fresh fruits. We also purchased some kava root from one of the booths to make the national drink of Fiji. It is known to be a sedative, helping the body to relax while clearing the mind.

Drinking fresh mango juice outside the market

Fijian kids love getting their picture taken

That evening, a man from the resort pounded the sundried kava and mixed the powder in a bucket of water creating a cloudy brownish-grey concoction. He then taught us the traditional way to drink -- reciting "Bula" before and after each bowl along with a series of three claps. The flavor wasn't necessarily bad, but is most comparable to the taste of dirt. After a few "high-tides" (full bowls made from a shelled-out coconut), my lips and tongue were numb, but that's about all I felt.

The next day we took a "taxi" (i.e. ten of us sat in the bed of a small pick-up truck while the other two sat in the cab with the driver) to Natadola Beach which is known to be one of the best white sand and surf beach on the main island. The driver wasn't completely sure how to get there and it took over an hour, so we sang songs in French, Mexican and English to keep our minds off the bumpy ride along dirt roads in the back country.

When we finally got to the beach, we waded through the clear, warm water along the cliffside before relaxing in the sand. I played a little sand soccer with the boys and we finished the day horseback riding down the beach.

A long ride along dirt roads in the bed of a truck leads to singing/screaming French songs

Before going back to the resort, we stopped in a little tourist town on a marina for a seafood dinner with a lot of Fijian beer.

Cheers! ...I mean, Bula!

The next day, Anchorage transferred our accommodation to it's partner resort on Beach Comber Island. There, we ate great Fijian food, snorkeled along the reefs and met other students from all over the world. The boys sailed and played miniature golf while the girls relaxed in the sun. We all spent the majority of our time at a little private saltwater pool hidden near the back of the island. At nighttime, since the island caters to students, it basically turns into one enormous beach party.

We stayed the majority of the next day on the island and caught our boat home early in the evening. The water was a little rough and some of the boys chose to sit at the bow. It was hilarious watching them get slammed by wave after wave over the course of an hour.

That night we drank more kava and regretfully spent our last night together in Fiji before flying back to Auckland the next morning.

Highlights of the Trip:

Kava

We created our own traditional kava ceremony complete with "King Ratu" (a.k.a. Travis), a Queen and servants. Although I didn't get the full relaxing effect of the drink, I laughed the most while sitting outside with our fictitious tribe.

Snorkeling

I have never seen ocean life like I did in Fiji. All of the fish were such vibrant colors and matched the atmosphere of the bright coral. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately?) I did not see any sharks, but spoke to multiple people who did.

Kayaking

We took the kayaks out one evening into the ocean outside the resort. As Mads and I raced Nate/Elizabeth and Mark/Allison along the coast, we tried to smash into one of their boats, but were hit sideways by a wave and flipped out of the kayak in the middle of the water, obviously losing the race. Karma, I guess.

Taxi Ride

At times (like when we were driving over rickety bridges on railroad tracks) we thought we were being taken into the bush of Fiji to never return again, but it ended up being a great experience. Ever since that ride, I've had "Aux Champs Elysées" and other French songs I don't know the words to stuck in my head.

"Top 10 Reasons to Visit New Zealand"

2009-09-24T21:17:00.007-04:00

New Zealand's current Prime Minister, John Key, just appeared on David Letterman's Late Show for the "Top 10" segment.

Check out his jokes about how the country, only "a convenient 20-hour flight away," actually likes America... "unlike the rest of the world."

Getting High.

2009-09-20T02:36:00.018-04:00

August 27th - 30th: Climbing Kawaka Bay, Whanganui Bay, and Mangaokewa

I can honestly say that I have enjoyed every minute here in New Zealand. Everything I have chosen to do and experience has resulted in some sort of positive outcome. Even the time we stayed the night in a shabby hostel with no heat in the dead of winter, we now have an amusing story to laugh at and we know it can’t get much worse.

Although I have no regrets, I have recently been thinking a lot about why I came to New Zealand. I have come up with seven main reasons that drew me here.

1. English speakers
2. The big city life (i.e. Auckland)
3. Country with a prominent media
4. University with an established journalism program
5. Distance that worries my parents
6. Mountains
7. Passion for outdoor adventure

The last one is what has been bothering me. This country is notorious for its natural world and the availability of outdoor recreation, but I have yet to take full advantage of it. As Mark and I hiked down to the lake last weekend, we talked about how we both felt the same way. Mark took a NOLS trip a couple years back and is also an avid climber, so he holds a large passion for the outdoors. He has kept in contact with Alicia, our Australearn program instructor, who is also a climber. She and her husband spend a lot of time at the local climbing gym and Mark has joined them for a few trips. They recently invited him on a weekend climbing/camping trip and while we were on our long trek back up the mountain, he asked if I wanted to tag along. Although I have only done basic climbing a handful of times, I could not turn down the opportunity.

August 27th

Mark and I stocked up on essential food for the weekend (peanut butter, tuna and bread) and Alicia picked us up on Thursday evening. We drove a couple of hours to meet her husband Forbes and camp for the night. Forbes is an instructor for AUT’s Outdoor Recreation and was in the middle of a class trip. We met about 15 students and four instructors just in time to set up our tent and get to sleep. The group was exhausted from a full day of climbing and they were already in their tents when we arrived. It was only around 10 p.m. but we had no other option than to also get in our tent and try to sleep. Mark had a few movies on his iPod so with a watchband and a little patience he was able to creatively rig it to the top of the tent so we could watch a movie before falling asleep.

August 28th

We woke up early the next morning and drove to Kawakawa Bay for the first day of climbing. It took us about an hour to hike in and once we were there we split from the rest of the group. The class was working on technical aspects so Mark, Alicia and I went off to climb for fun. I had conveniently borrowed a harness from a friend in my building, but it was difficult wearing normal sneakers instead of climbing shoes. Mark and Alicia were both really supportive and found good climbs for a beginner. Climbing may look easy, but getting in the rhythm of pushing off of one leg at a time while thrusting the rest of your body as high as possible is not a natural technique for me. Although I struggled a bit, I eventually made it to the top of each pitch and was able to turn around and see only the clear blue Lake Taupo beneath me. Climbing is so rewarding because each time you actually have an established goal of reaching the top. Getting there makes all of the hard work worthwhile.

I also really enjoyed watching Mark and the others climb. I had no idea Mark was so experienced and it was a bit of a shock to watch him climb so smoothly and make even the most difficult pitches look effortless. I would love to reach this point where each swift movement falls into the next while keeping a rhythm with little hesitation, but right now I need a lot of practice.

Mark setting me up for the first climb

Climbing at Kawakawa

After a lunch of peanut butter sandwiches followed by more climbing, the class left to go back to Auckland and we headed to our next campsite. We ditched the car and Mark, Alicia, Forbes and I piled into another instructor’s van. Hannes is a “German Kiwi” who also works for AUT Outdoors. He had an awesome road-trip van complete with curtains and a full bed in the back. We drove down a rutted dirt road in the pitch-black and arrived at a Maori Village on Whanganui Bay that permits climbers to camp on their land for a small fee. We ate our tuna sandwiches in the cold and did not hesitate to pitch our tent and get into our warm sleeping bags. Mark and I definitely didn’t need a movie this night due to pure exhaustion from the busy day.

August 29th

When I woke up the next morning I realized we were actually on the western shore of another part of the vast Lake Taupo. We didn’t waste much time and began climbing "Tibia" almost immediately after breakfast. Hannes went up first to set the gear and I followed soon after. I was pretty confused about what we were doing or where we were climbing but I was just told to follow the rope up. Mark let me wear his climbing shoes to make it easier and I began climbing upward. As soon as I reached the crack, I was told to look left and saw a skull surrounded by tibia bones glaring back at me. Ah... tibia now made sense. I continued on with my back to one wall and my feet on the other, and was able to maneuver myself up to a ledge to meet Hannes. He set me up to belay Mark and then continued to the next pitch.

The final pitch of the climb was the most difficult for me. Again, there were two rock faces to use, one with a large crack in it. They were positioned much further apart than the previous ones which made it difficult for a person with short legs. By jamming my toes in a crack or shoving my arm in up to my shoulder where it wouldn’t budge, I was able to get my back foot up just a bit higher each time and shimmy up the climb. Mark was below helping me find holds and Hannes was encouraging from the top, but at times my back leg would be shaking so uncontrollably from tired muscles I did not think I was going to make it. When I finally reached the top, Hannes told me just to flop my body over the ledge like I was getting out of the pool and I could barely gain enough strength to do that. But once I did, I finally realized what it meant to climb Tibia. We were about 50 meters high looking out on an astounding view of the coastline and sparkling water. Then came the best part: the abseil (or repel). I have now done quite a bit of abseiling and wouldn’t say I am scared of heights, but I have never done anything this high before. I was a little hesitant when Forbes told me to just walk over the edge, but once I did I loved knowing I had full control while descending down the side of a cliff.

Later in the day, more friends of Forbes and Hannes came and I was able to watch everyone complete more difficult climbs while I explored the area. I attempted another climb, but I felt so satisfied after accomplishing Tibia that nothing else could compare.

That night, three others joined the camp so we talked and laughed over dinner, listened to the didgeridoo and cringed at other’s failed attempts at the instrument.

Hannes and his multipurpose van

Early morning walk to "Tibia"

The skull and bones at Tibia

The view from the top of the Tibia climb

Preparing for the 50 meter abseil (164 feet!)

On the way down

Mark heading down

Alicia abseiling

Follow the big crack in the middle of the rock to the top ledge of the Tibia climb.

And if you look closely, you'll find mark in the middle of another climb.

A view of the beach at the bay

August 30th

We had a little bit of rain the next morning and wet rock is not apt for climbing. Instead of staying as planned, we left the Maori campsite, picked up Alicia’s car and headed to Mangaokewa. Mangaokewa is a steep crag with a large overhang that allows it to stay dry from the rain. When we arrived, there were already some other climbers also taking advantage of the dry area. The whole atmosphere was extremely welcoming and supportive. I felt pretty insecure initially because I was obviously the most inexperienced one there, but it quickly became clear that everyone is willing to help you get up on that rock and succeed. Although my tired muscles did not make climbing easy that day, I just truly enjoyed watching and participating in such a relaxed and encouraging environment.

Multiple climbers at Mangaokewa

Thanks to Alicia and Forbes for letting me tag along!

Credit goes to Alicia for some of the pictures.

Whakapapa -- "Fuck-a-papa" and Mt. Ngauruhoe

2009-09-04T03:32:00.009-04:00

August 21-23

On Friday evening, eight of us piled into a rented mini van and headed towards Tongariro National Park. After getting slightly turned around in Hamilton and adding four extra hours to our trip, we arrived at The Crossing Backpackers hostel around 1:30 a.m.

We woke up to a cold, frosty morning, unlike the weather we're accustomed to in Auckland, and hit the road by 8 o'clock. We drove a few minutes to Whakapapa (The "Wh" in Maori language makes the "F" sound so we obviously enjoyed the pronunciation), the main town in the are. There, we dropped off a couple to ski Mount Rupehu, but the pricey costs, crowded slopes and mediocre conditions turned me off of the idea.

Instead, the rest of the group set off for a day tramp through the National Park. The scenery that surrounded us was that used to represent the Kingdom of Mordor in Lord of the Rings. And as we walked, the view of the snow-capped Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom in the LOTR trilogy) became clearer which created a good backdrop setting during our walk.

Our final destination was Tama Lake where we stopped to enjoy the view, have some snacks and rest up before the three hour hike back to the van. The lake sat at the bottom of an enormous crater, so of course Mark and I decided to hike down to it. After a fifteen minute trek down ankle-deep loose rock, we finally made it down to skip stones across the pristine water with an open view of "Mt. Doom" in the distance. I'm definitely glad I ventured down to the water, but the hike out of the basin to the top of the hill was grueling. Mark stayed close behind me in case the rocks tumbled and was keen to take a few breaks which was nice because we still had a long walk ahead of us.

Later that night we treated ourselves to a good dinner and a few beers at a local restaurant before a relaxing night back at the hostel. The next morning we drove to Hamilton to explore the small town and have lunch before getting back to Auckland.

Overall, it was a low-key weekend but it felt good to get out of the city once again.

The group just beginning our long hike

Overlooking Tongariro

Taranaki Falls

Typical Kristen and Mads

Mark in the midst of "Mordor"

Mads perched on a rock above the waterfall

Audrey and Mark resting above Tama Lake

Self-timer with Mount Ngauruhoe in the background

Can YOU handle the JANDAL?

2009-08-19T21:16:00.008-04:00

"No Shoes, No Shirt, No Service" is a familiar phrase that many Americans see hung on signs outside of grocery stores or at the local Seven-Eleven/Piggly Wiggly/Wawa (take your pick). Why is this "no shoes - no service" rule such a widely accepted paradigm? I seem to have grown up accepting the fact that the only time barefootedness is permitted is when Mom just washed the kitchen floor or while walking on the beach (Although I did go through a phase of social embarrassment when I wore oh-so-fashionable water shoes to avoid the crabs at Ocean City. Those pre-teen years were not my best times).

Here in New Zealand, it is perfectly normal to stroll the street with bare feet. I'm not sure if it is to enhance the idea of clean, green, 100% pure New Zealand or to reinforce the laid-back, relaxed kiwi lifestyle where hippy meets beach bum. Either way it is a societal norm, even during the dead winter in the largest city in the country.

But there comes a time when a kiwi may not feel so liberated and needs slightly more reinforcement, this is when we meet "The Jandal."

Some say jandals gained popularity in NZ in the 1950s from Japanese influence. The word itself supposedly originated from the term "Japanese sandal." But no matter where it came from and what it means (flip-flop, thong, sandal, etc.), it is a staple of the NZ wardrobe in all climates

Jandals can also refer to any type of breezy footwear. Whether it be the durable Rainbow, the rubber Havianna, the rugged Chaco, the more modest, but still breezy with heaps of conveniently placed holes: the Croc, or the Birkenstock (Disclaimer: even while worn with tube socks by the most fashion savvy tourists, it is still considered a jandal).

So if I have not made it clear already, kiwis love their jandals and they even celebrate National Jandal Day on December 4th to support surf lifeguards throughout both islands.

If you take away anything from this post, please remember that you should never enter New Zealand without packing your jandals. Also, do not be be alarmed if you hear AUT International students implementing the word incorrectly. For example: "That's so jandalous!" or "Mmmm... Jandalicious!"

A view from the top

2009-08-17T00:03:00.003-04:00

Auckland is such a busy city packed with towering buildings and traffic-filled streets; it is amazing to think that the whole place sits on a potentially active volcano field.

Mt. Eden was formed over 20,000 years ago and is not expected to erupt, so therefore it serves as a great hilltop to view Auckland.

I went with my friend Frederik (Germany) on a nice afternoon to climb the steep hill to the top of Mt. Eden. The weather was warm so we took our time enjoying the view and snapping a ton of great pictures.

Noho Marae

2009-08-12T20:10:00.006-04:00

"Tuia I runga

Tuia I raro

Tuia te here tangata

tena koutou katoa"

The Maori people are the original settlers of New Zealand. Although the traditional Maori culture is mainly endorsed today to attract tourism, it is still a largely respected aspect of Aotearoa (NZ). The country even recognizes the Maori language along with English as the two official languages of the country.

This past weekend I attended the Noho Marae hosted by the uni's International Student Support Services. About 130 international students from the school met on Friday to begin celebrating the weekend. On campus, we have a Marae which is a complex of buildings and open space to fully accommodate a community and its Manuhiri (visitors). On Friday evening, we took off our shoes (a traditional Maori custom) and piled into the Wharenhui (meeting house), the focal point of the Marae. There, we were formerly greeted by the Maori who taught us a few basic things about the culture and encouraged us to meet one another. After brief introductions in small groups, we headed to the Wharekai (dining hall) for dinner. Each student brought a traditional dish from their culture, so the whole place was filled with an abundance of great food. I basically tried one of everything. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to make anything to bring because I was with a travel agent all afternoon (I'll explain this later). After eating way too much food, we all met at Vesbar, the on-campus bar, for a few drinks and live music. Kenneth Holt, the international student advisor, play bass in a band that performed for us. They play a mix of classic rock and more modern songs and we all danced and sung along. I love how we come from all over the world and speak different languages, but we can still sing along to the same music.

Enjoying the food at dinner

My new Swedish friends will full plates

Lisa, Alma, Martina (Sweden) Mariann, Elina (Norway)

and me (USA!) at Vesbar

We arrived back at the Marae early on Saturday morning to learn more songs, meet new friends and of course eat more food. We learned a variety of different songs throughout the day because music is a large part of the culture. We were also taught "The Stick Game" which is a hand-eye coordination game to be played with a partner. Elin, from Sweden, was my partner and we struggled to stay on beat and kept missing instructions because we couldn't stop laughing.

The boys and girls were also split up so the boys could learn the Haka and the girls the Poi dance. We made a Poi, which is essentially a ball at the end of a piece of string, with yarn and dacron stuffing. We were taught a dance that involved hitting and twirling the Poi to the rhythm of a song while moving your hips to the beat. I was absolutely awful and kept accidently hitting the girls around me with my poi.

At the end of the night, we performed our songs, games, and dances to a group of AUT faculty and headed back to the Wharekai for a hangi. A hangi is a traditional maori feast of many different meats (the lamb was the best), potatoes (kumara, a type of sweet potato might be my new favorite food), pumpkin, stuffing, salad, stew and more.

The girls learning a song

(I stick out in the front row with my bright green socks)

Some of the group learning the stick game

Anna and me

Elin and I probably messing it all up as usual

The girls dancing the Poi

Some of the boys getting ready to perform the Haka

My table at the hangi.

A mix from Sweden, Norway, Germany and the US

A brief lesson on New Zealand culture

2009-08-04T08:37:00.009-04:00

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home." -James Michener

New Zealand culture isn't too different than that of the U.S., but I notice new things every day that are unlike what I am accustomed to. For example, I asked my Kiwi flatmates if they had any Neosporin and they had no clue what I was asking for. I've tried to put together a short list of other differences I have picked up on in the past month that many Americans don't know about. So, enjoy you're brief cultural lesson:

New Zealanders drive on the left side of road in the right side of the car. And in manual shift cars, the driver shifts with their left hand. (This one was pretty obvious but I'm even left handed and I find it so strange!)

They have “give way” signs instead of yield signs

It is not necessary to refrigerate your eggs. The rumor is that American eggs have hormones in them that require us to keep them cold so they won't spoil.

Dinner is commonly referred to as “tea” even though no drinking of tea is involved.

When you buy a common loaf of bread, you have two options: toast or sandwich. Toast bread is just slightly thicker... this baffled me because when you're at the store looking at the loaves of bread, both look completely the same. I had to ask myself, "Do I eat more toast or sandwiches?"

Peppers (as in red pepper, green pepper, etc.) are called capsicums.

You don't need to tip anyone... for anything!

Restaurants don't have ketchup, but instead have "Tomato Sauce." It's thinner and has a little different flavor than our typical Heinz 57.

Eggs are not just for breakfast, kiwi's put fried eggs on basically everything: steak, chicken, etc.

A kiwi is not a fruit. It's an endangered bird or the slang term for a New Zealander. Taking a bite out of a kiwi will most likely be frowned upon. A "kiwifruit" is a fruit.

Bathrooms and restrooms do not exist... only "toilets." It's not impolite, it's just how it is.

They have no coin less than 10 cents. Everything gets rounded, except when you pay with a debit or credit card.

Most stores will not let you return anything. If they do have a return policy, it will be very strict such as items can only be returned within 48 hours of purchase.

A typical week in Auckland

2009-08-02T09:09:00.008-04:00

July 27th - August 2nd

It was tough returning to Auckland for a week of class after such an amazing weekend getaway, but it managed to be a good week and gave me the opportunity to do more exploring in the city.

As for class, I'm pretty happy with my schedule and the courses are all interesting so far.

Intro to New Zealand Popular Culture

This is a communication class that meets twice a week. On Mondays it is an hour-long lecture with about 2oo students and Thursday a smaller group of about 25 meet for a three-hour tutorial. It generally analyzes the cultural development of New Zealand's society. Although it hasn't been too exciting thus far, I'm hoping it will liven up once we finish covering the basics and start looking at modern culture.

Te Ara Poutama (Maori Leadership)

I have a feeling that this course will turn out to be my favorite. It meets on Tuesday's for three hours and there are a little less than 20 students enrolled -- half of them international. So far, we took personality tests to identify certain characteristics to learn about our tendencies and how we interact with one another. I'm not quite sure what comes next in the course, but I have a feeling it will be worthwhile.

Professional Wine Studies

I needed another elective and I wasn't too disappointed when I learned that a wine tasting class was the one that worked with my schedule. It's a bit ironic, but I think this will be my hardest class. It meets on Tuesday evenings and I missed the first day because I enrolled late. When I arrived for class in Week 2 I was extremely overwhelmed. They had already covered the basics (like how to hold, swirl, sniff and sip your wine) and the professor had to continuously correct me. After listening to our guest speaker, the owner of West Brook Winery, explain the wine-making process, we sampled four different wines: three rieslings and one chardonnay. But we didn't just gulp the wine, we had to smell it, taste it and spit it out multiple times before taking a sip. In Week 6 we get to have a four-course meal and I'm hoping we don't have to spit that out too! Our big project during the semester is to create an extensive menu pairing foods with a wine which will be somewhat difficult. It may be a very time-consuming course, but in the long run I think it will be good knowledge to have so I can pretend to be sophisticated.

New Media Journalism

On Fridays, I meet with a small group of students and we run Te Wahu Nui, the university's online publication. We've split up into three groups: editors, audio visual and text and images. I joined the text and image team so I can get more writing experience. I'm the only international student in this class and I think I may struggle to find story ideas, but I'm glad that I have the opportunity to get published.

Fun Fact: The professor, Myrddin Gwynedd, was voted the #1 blogger in New Zealand! Check him out at the New Zealand Herald.

Other than class, I have been discovering the city and experimenting with Auckland's impressive nightlife. I have also been attempting to meet more international students and got the opportunity to go out for drinks on Wednesday with some new Swedish friends. They taught me a few Swedish swear words and how to say cheers. They even promised to teach me Swedish drinking songs soon.

On Friday, my flatmates and I went to a toga/foam party at the on-campus bar (yes, we have a bar on campus!). It was unlike any party I have ever been to and the walk home in a soaking wet toga was not too fun, but overall we had a good time.

Hopefully this coming week will be just as good as the last.

My flatmates Samantha (New York), Lynnelle (NZ) and Jess (NZ)

dressed in our togas before the party

A few friends enjoying the foam

Covered in foam and smiling!

Out on the town with Emily, Roberta and Annie

Audrey, Roberta, Mads, Me

In the flat with a few friends

July 24-26: A weekend away from the city

2009-07-27T02:07:00.010-04:00

After class on Friday, a group of ten (1 kiwi, 1 Norwegian, and 8 Americans) headed out of Auckland on a somewhat spontaneous weekend trip. We rented two cars and just drove (on the left side of the road!) to the coast, with no set plans. We arrived late and found a nice hostel on Buffalo Beach. No restaurants were opened so we ate a petrol station dinner of grilled cheese and chips. While many were tired and wanted to get to bed, my Norwegian friend Mads (pronounced like Motts) and I decided to take a short trip to town to observe the Whitianga nightlife. We just sat in the corner of a bar and watched these interesting "townies" bust hilarious moves on the dance floor... it was obvious that we were far from Auckland.

After a good night sleep in the hostel, we set out early to hike to Coromandel Cove. This place cannot be described in words and my pictures barely do it justice. We couldn't have picked a better "Winter" day to go; the soft sand, warm water and blue skies were the perfect end to our first week of class.

There are supposed to be more sheep than people in NZ,

but I swear I've seen more cows

A cartwheel on the beach is a must-do

After we hesitantly left the cove, we checked into our second hostel, had a nice lunch of fish and chips (or fush and chups as kiwis like to say), borrowed a shovel from the hostel and drove to reach Hot Water Beach at 3 p.m. for low-tide. When the tide goes out, people head to the beach to dig holes in the sand and allow them to fill up with warm water creating natural hot tubs. Some volcanos made underground reservoirs of superheated water and over time, this water can escape to the surface. There are two hot springs at the beach that release water as hot as 147º Fahrenheit, so some spots were too hot to sit in, but once you dug the right hole you never wanted to get out.

Digging our pool at the beach

Audrey, Mads, Emily and Annie enjoying the beach

A few friends leaving at sunset

That evening, we returned to our hostel which was much different from the last one. With no heat and ten rickety beds crammed into a long corridor, we made the best of it, endured the cold night and headed home in the morning. We had a nice scenic ride and stopped at an organic cafe on the beach for lunch and ice cream and were able to snap a few more pictures of the scenery before going back to the bustling city.

Our room at the hostel

Ice cream at the beach

Overall, the trip was a huge success and it just makes me want to travel more and see as much of New Zealand as I possibly can. I have promised myself that many more weekend trips will happen throughout the semester. This one was just a small taste of what we can experience.

A photo Paul took of me looking out the window.

There is so much to see and do here, I wish I could grasp it all.

Five obvious ways why New Zealand is GREENER than the U.S.:

2009-07-23T03:10:00.005-04:00

1. Every toilet I have seen has two flushing options: half or full. The half flush is for liquid only and uses less water than a normal flush. This feature has recently been added to certain bathrooms at Appalachian, but NZ is ahead of the game by having these toilets generally in all bathrooms.
2. It has become increasingly trendy to use reusable shopping bags in The States, but the popularity of these bags is overwhelming here in Auckland. Every type of store offers them and some even give them out for free after making a purchase. It is almost unlikely to see a person walk into a grocery store not holding a cloth bag.

3. All wall outlets are equipped with switches to turn on or off when the outlet is being used. When you are not using a plug in the socket, just flip the switch to conserve even the slightest bit more electricity.

4. Speaking of switches, even the microwave and stovetop must be flipped on to use. It is strange for me to not rely on the microwave to also serve as a digital clock, but the concept of completely shutting down the appliances is sensible.

5. In some public restrooms, instead of offering paper towels or an electric hand dryer, they have cloth towels that come out of a dispenser. When you want to dry your hands, just pull down a clean piece and the used towel will roll back up into the box. At first, I wasn’t sure how to approach this device, but it does not use any electricity and creates no waste. A picture of this will be added soon.

Rugby is Sweet As!

2009-07-23T01:49:00.004-04:00

Saturday arvo, I went with some chicks and blokes and walked full tit through the big smoke to watch some footie. The All Blacks (New Zealand) were playing the dodgy Wallabies (Australia) so we skulled some plonk and Steinies with other scarfies and headed into the stadium. The place was chocka-a-block and although our seats were a little far from the pitch, we could still see the scrums, mauls and rucks clear as. After the AB’s crushed the knackered Aussies, we put on our jumpers and skited the entire walk home. The whole experience was good-as-gold… just as much fun as gridiron.

And yes, that is English...sort of.

Kia Ora!

2009-07-13T22:17:00.022-04:00

I have now been in New Zealand for 10 days and have yet had the opportunity to update this blog. I would really like to post more frequently, but with so much to experience and New Zealand's sparse internet access, I have not been sticking with it. So lately, I have been lying in bed at night with my L.E.D. headlamp (thanks Dad!) and attempting to write out my adventures by hand. There is so much to say about my time here so I may have to cut some of it short, but my beautiful corner view of the big city out of this quaint coffee shop will hopefully make it easy to keep working.

July 5th

Once I arrived at the gate in LAX airport, I met up with a few Australearn students who I recognized from Facebook. A group of about five of us sat on the floor near the terminal and shared our fears and excitement. As time slowly passed, more joined the circle and by boarding time, we had expanded into a group of 15 who dominated the floor of the terminal.

We all split up to board the plane and when I arrived at my seat, I was so pleased to find out I had three chairs all to myself. After a surprisingly delicious airplane dinner, I played a movie on one of my three personal screens and made a comfy bed out of my three pillows and three blankets and soundly slept the first half of the trip.

I woke up and finished a book I had started in The States: Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? It is a vulgar story about a Lonely Planet guidebook writer's adventure during a trip to Brazil. As a journalism student going abroad, it was the perfect read to spark my enthusiasm about the trip.

July 6th

This day never existed for me. I completely bypassed

it to arrive in Auckland on the 7th. How crazy is that??

July 7th

We arrived at the airport at about 6 a.m. and met our Australearn group leaders and some more students bringing our group to a total of 24. We all hopped on a bus and drove about two hours to Rotorua (known to some kiwis as Rotovegas). We stayed in KiwiPaka, a nice hostel popular for backpackers and thrill seekers. After exploring the town and attending a brief orientation, our jet-lag kicked in and put most of us into a deep sleep by 8 o'clock.

July 8th

We awoke this morning to a large, hot breakfast to begin our jam-packed day of excitement. It

began with zorbing, an activity that words cannot even describe. Kristin, another Australearn student, and I decided to ride together. So, we put on our bathing suits and hopped into a big, clear plastic ball filled with warm water and rolled down a grassy hill. This was not a delicate ride as we slipped and slid all across the narrow inside of the ball, but needless to say we got to know each other very quickly. When it was over, they dumped us out, soaking wet and freezing but with huge smiles across our faces.

Later that day we returned to our hostel to meet Maori instructors to learn the Haka. The Haka is a traditional Maoria war chant to perform before entering a battle. After much practice, the girls put on long skirts, halter tops and headbands while the boys wore loincloth-esque attire for the final performance. No one held back and we all stomped and screamed and chanted as loud as we could and always finished with a laugh. We're going to an All Black rugby match TOMORROW, so it will be great to see them perform the chant and actually understand what is going on.

That evening, we went to the Tamaka Maori Village to learn about the tribal culture and enjoy a traditional Hangi feast.

July 9th

This day was another one filled with New Zealand adventure. We got on the bus that morning and took a short ride down the road to go caving. We each had to choose between a wet or dry cave tour. Even though it is Winter here, I could not pass up the opportunity to absail (or repel as it is known in The States) down underground waterfalls. I joined one of the groups that chose the wet option and suited up in a wetsuit, helmet and galoshes (or gumboots as kiwis would say) before trekking to the cave opening. The beginning of the cave was tough and you really had to trust the others in the group to guide you step by step down the dark, tight passages. We were underground for about three and a half hours squeezing through tiny holes and crawling through the streams of water. The best part of the trip was absailing down a 30 foot drop, turning off our headlamps and looking up at a ceiling spotted with green glowworms. The whole experience was unlike anything I have ever done and if I can manage to not spend all of my money by the end of the trip, I may go back to do it again.

A few of us suited up and ready to go!

Swimming underground

Absailing down a waterfall

During the return drive to Kiwipaka, one of our Australearn orientation leaders surprised us with a stop to see an Angora Rabbit being sheared. This was the biggest bunny I have ever seen and it produced the softest fur. Now that I have seen a rabbit sheared, I have decided that I definitely need to shear a sheep before I leave New Zealand.

July 10th - 17th

During our time in Rotorua, everyone was so anxious to get to Auckland where we could unpack and stop living out of our suitcases. Once we finally got on the bus to head there, many of us felt knots in our stomachs and were apprehensive about seeing this new city that we would call home for the next five months. Once we finally arrived, the excitement kicked in again when we saw our flats. All of the Australearn students are spread across the 13 floors of the Wellesley Student Apartments. Each flat has five bedrooms and one bathroom with two toilets and two showers. The five people also share a fully equipped kitchen (with a microwave/oven combo... who even know those existed?), a common area with a couple couches and a T.V. and a beautiful floor-to-ceiling view of the city. I currently only have one flatmate, Samantha from New York. Although she is from the U.S., she did not come with Australearn. Our other three flatmates are Kiwi girls who have not yet returned from their holiday break, but I am eagerly awaiting their arrival.

Wellesley Student Apartments

common area

my room

The view from the window

I have been spending my days in Auckland exploring the city and trying to get settled. I like to describe Auckland as the New York City of New Zealand. The streets are always crowded with people from all over the world. I'm glad I am experiencing the city life, but I also cannot wait to get out and travel to the remote parts of NZ.

While I would love to continue writing about all of the friends I've made and sights I've seen here in Auckland, I would rather get out of this coffee shop and go experience more!

If anyone is reading, please comment to let me know you're out there!

En Route.

2009-07-05T21:50:00.003-04:00

Currently sitting on the floor in the LAX airport. It's 9:50 p.m. east coast time, but only 6:50 here. This is my first time traveling between time zones and I must admit that it is thoroughly confusing. My flight doesn't leave for New Zealand until 10:30 p.m. so I'm now going to find ways to amuse myself and hopefully meet up with some of the other Australearn kids to meet my new friends for the next 5 months.

Hopefully these posts will get much more exciting and detailed within the weeks to come.

p.s. I'm learning to love airports. Everyone is in quite a rush and I feel important pretending to know what I'm doing and where I'm going (someone even asked ME for directions!). I wish everyone had a stamp on their forehead of their destination. It would cure my curiosity, but also ruin the guessing-game I like to play.

iTravel

2009-07-03T13:54:00.004-04:00

Although my plane leaves in two days, I am not even slightly prepared. I can’t even say that I’m mentally prepared because my mind cannot seem to weigh any feelings of excitement/nervousness/readiness/fear. I’m hoping it will hit me all at once in the airport.

While it will be okay to mentally prepare myself at the last minute, I should probably work on my physical preparation (i.e. packing) pretty soon. I recently purchased a set of luggage that my mom describes as being put in the store just for me to buy it. It’s true, these lime green, rugged, High Sierra pieces just scream my name. Along with luggage, I also bought an R.E.I Ventruri Backpack to use as my carry-on as well as on weekend trips and tramping. I’m hoping they will contend with my tendencies to over-pack.

The only thing that I have successfully packed is my iTunes. I’m satisfied that my updated playlist with keep me entertained with new material during my 20+ hour trip. I’ve also picked through my music to create a “Travel” playlist with songs to get me in the mood to [for lack of a better word] GO!

Here are my Top 15 Travel Songs:

1. Ramble On – Led Zeppelin

I may not be “goin’ round the world to find my girl” but the song represents a sense of freedom, spontaneity oh and, rock and roll.

2. New World Man – Rush

After following some friend's obsession with 'Tom Sawyer,' I have grown to love Rush's greatest hits. This is such a perfect song for being young and traveling while choosing to make mistakes and to learn from them.

3. Don’t Stay Home – 311

311 will always represent summertime in Manassas and while the song reminds me of home, it encourages you to never say no and sit at home when the world is waiting.

4. The Adventure – Angels & Airwaves

"Here I am and here we go, life’s waiting to begin."

5. Taste – Animal Collective

Animal Collective is one of my more recent obsessions. This song on their newest album, Merriweather Post Pavilion, deals with someone still remaining to be themselves without having everything (music, posessions, clothes) that make them who they are.

6. The Long and Winding Road - The Beatles

This is such a typical travel song, but it's The Beatles and it's about being on the road, so it's perfect.

7. Time Turns Elastic – Phish

This is a new piece from Phish that moves through segments exploring each part of the world and nature while being out on his own.

8. The World at Large – Modest Mouse

The song is about drifting and getting to a new, unfamiliar place. “If the world’s at large, why should I remain?”

9. My Love Goes With You – Mishka

I learned of Mishka after writing an album review for The Appalachian. This peaceful, reggae song from 'Above the Bones' encourages you to find love, truth and free time for yourself within everything you do, wherever you are.

10. Road Trippin – Red Hot Chili Peppers

This is such a cliche travel song, but I definitely needed some Chili Peppers in the mix. And there is nothing wrong with wanting to "go get lost."

11. Godspeed – Jenny Lewis

While the girl in this song is encouraged to leave because of the abuse she is receiving, I still just love the encouragement to keep going but to “keep the lighthouse in sight.”

12. Such Great Heights – Iron & Wine

This song is a cover of The Postal Service, but Iron & Wine’s version kicks its ass. No one can tell you to quit your adventure when you want to keep going: “They will see us waving from such great heights ‘Come down now,’ they'll say. But everything looks perfect from far away…”

13. Movin’ On Down the Line – The Black Crowes

This song is about keepin' on while letting go and moving on.

14. Wagon Wheel – Old Crow Medicine Show

This song travels up and down the east coast and just reminds of North Carolina.

15. How Bizarre - OMC

This hilarious 90's hit is by OMC, a one-hit-wonder Maori group from Auckland, New Zealand. So, it was obviously necessary to include this in the list.

My List Keeps Growing.

2009-05-26T13:05:00.004-04:00

Since I am still not in New Zealand, I obviously don't have much to post on here. I am, however, constantly thinking about my time abroad and planning what I want to accomplish overseas. I had an assignment in a class last semester to create a "Bucket List:" a list of tasks you want to accomplish before you die. There is a good chance I may be able to cross some things off my list within the next 6 months, and a greater chance that I will add to it. But for now, here are 30 things I want to accomplish before I die:

1. Become a talented, experienced knitter.

2. Own my own dog

3. Go backpacking through Europe

4. Own a manual shift red Jeep Wrangler

5. Stay in the ice hotel

6. Learn to sail

7. Bungee jump

8. Hike the entire Appalachian Trail

9. Get a tattoo and never regret it

10. Live in a big city

11. Own a house with dormer windows and a balcony

12. Learn to blow glass jewelry

13. Own an antique typewriter

14. Consistently keep a journal for at least one year

15. Attend a large music festival

16. Improve my snowboarding skills to the point where I feel completely competent (...to the shred the gnar)

17. Have kids

18. Live by myself with no roommates

19. See Van Gogh’s original “Starry Night” in the museum of modern art in New York City

20. Send a postcard to PostSecret

21. Have my own blog that people actually read

22. Go on a blind date

23. Ride in a hot air balloon

24. Learn to sew and own my own sewing machine

25. Go fishing, catch a fish, cook it over a fire and eat it

~~26. Spend New Years Eve in Times Square~~

27. Paint a mural

28. Fly first class

29. Eat sushi in Japan

~~30. Donate my hair to Locks-of-Love~~

No turning back.

2009-05-14T14:25:00.002-04:00

My flight is officially booked. I will be leaving Washington D.C. at 2:54 p.m. on July 5th, flying about five hours to L.A. where I will meet up with about 15 other students going to schools all across New Zealand. We will all get on our 20+ hour flight at 10:30 p.m. on July 5th and arrive in Auckland at 6:25 a.m. on July 7th. I'll be flying for about two days of my life, but this concept will be great when I gain two days on my flight back to the U.S. in December.

Through Australearn and Facebook, I have met two people who will also be in Auckland with me! Lauren is a senior at Arizona and will be studying at a nearby school in Auckland. She is also going to Bonnaroo in June so if I end up going we could potentially meet up. Justin is a junior at Washington State. He will be at AUT with me and is also staying in the Wellesley Apatments. He seems to be very interested in backpacking and travel, so I think we will get along very well.

51 days left in America and my excitement to leave grows more each day!

The First.

2009-04-19T23:32:00.007-04:00

I want to leave right now. I feel as if there is no better time for me to head to New Zealand than right this very moment. But since I can't go, I guess starting this blog will get my head there even when the rest of me is not.

So the plan is to leave for Auckland, New Zealand to study at AUT University on July 5th. I will have my own room in the university's Wellesley Apartments where I will share a kitchen, common area and bathroom with four other girls. The apartments are supposedly a three minute walk to campus (uphill, but Boone has definitely prepared me for that and it will probably make me feel more at home). I will take 4 classes: Photography, Maori Studies and 2 Journalism courses. The Maori course is what I am looking forward to the most, a requirement for passing is spending a long weekend with a traditional Maori tribe which will most likely be an amazing experience.

I have been constantly reading anything I can get my hands on about New Zealand. My most recent obsession is a travel guide that was a birthday gift from my parents. Here are a few of my favorite things I have learned from it:

Page 6: "A country unspoiled by industrial excess or overpopulation,

it is a land that was made for physical adventure, and few other places in the world are as geared as New Zealand to participating in its environment in every imaginable way.

After all, this is the nation that gave the world, among other things, bungy jumping."

Page 123: "The New Zealand dollar...[is] below the the value

of the American and Australian dollars,

making shopping in New Zealand

good value for visitors from abroad."

Page 126: "Both English and Maori are official languages."

Useful Maori Phrases:

Kia Ora! - Hello!

Kei te pehea koe - How are you?

Aue! - Alas!