"My mate, Marmite!"

A travel column for The Appalachian, App State's student newspaper:

http://theapp.appstate.edu/content/view/5602/56/

Vagabond and Beyond

Monday, 26 October 2009

Beer sludge for the open-minded traveler  by KELSEY OHLEGER I think it is safe to presume that college students love beer. They love drinking it: in plastic red cups, out of holes on the side of the can and through homemade funnels. They love playing with it: beer pong tournaments, endless card games and chugging contests. They love promoting it: neon signs hung in cluttered apartments, logos on worn-out t-shirts and embroidered on sweat-stained ball caps. I have recently learned of a way to take this passion a step further by eating it. Well, not necessarily eating beer, but more of byproduct of the drink that is popular here in the South Pacific. It can be purchased at any supermarket and most convenience stores and comes in a variety of sizes of plastic jars with red caps. This New Zealand delicacy is known as Marmite. After beer is brewed, concentrated yeast sludge is left coating the bottom of the barrel. This thick, dark, tar-like substance is then processed and packed with salt, vitamins and extra ingredients before pressed into a jar and sold to kiwis and other daring individuals. My native New Zealand flatmates can’t seem to describe the flavor other than just plain “tasty.” Generously buttered toast with a thin layer of Marmite spread on top is an enjoyable snack that they’ve been eating since they were old enough to chew solid food. But for Americans, it’s not as appetizing and is repeatedly described as “salty” and “bitter.” “It tastes like salty dirt,” Boston native Kristen Keaney said. Keaney has been living and studying in New Zealand for four months and refuses to eat Marmite. “If I need to coax myself into to eating something, I’m not meant to eat it,” she said. I tried the spread within the first few days I arrived here. After smearing about half a teaspoon on a piece of toast with butter, I took a small bite while keeping an open mind. It has a sharp, unusual taste with a slight meaty flavor, although it’s 100% vegetarian. I have continued to eat it this way while remembering the fact that there is some aspect of it that kiwi’s adore. Now, four months later, my thin layer has turned into a solid, gooey coating across a piece of multigrain toast. Like my flatmates, I can’t tell you why I enjoy the spread and or why it is such a satisfying snack, but I like it. I’m just glad I was able to keep an open mind and try it. I think this mind-set is one that every traveler should maintain while in a foreign environment. You do not have to like every entity of that culture, but you will be more apt to enjoy it if you approach an experience without negative expectations.

Picture Perfect

A travel column for The Appalachian, App State's student newspaper:

Vagabond and Beyond

Wednesday, 21 October 2009

10 Simple Tips for Travel Photography  by Kelsey Ohleger  Every traveler should document his or her trip through photography. Whether to share your experience with those back home, relive personal memories or make some quick cash (Google “travel photo contests” and you will not be disappointed), taking pictures, a lot of pictures, should be a priority.  In this technological age with affordable cameras, no one has the excuse to not be a photographer. As long as you have a basic digital camera and the willingness to be creative, your pictures will look like those found in National Geographic in no time.  Just follow these ten simple tips and you will soon have your favorite pictures to last a lifetime.  1. Get acquainted. You don’t have to sit down and read through the massive instruction book, but most digital cameras have creative tools that can give your photos that artistic edge. Skim the text and then play with the functions in your free time. Whether it be on the plane, train, bus, boat or camel en route to your next destination, make sure you know the ins and outs of the camera before your arrival.  2. Always be ready and raring. After hours of becoming familiar with your camera, the battery is most likely running low. Get into the habit of putting your battery on the charger whenever you walk into the room. If traveling overseas, be sure to have outlet adapters so you won’t miss out on any great pics due to a dead battery. And never forget to grab the camera (with the battery inside!) each time you leave your room.  3. Invest in protection. Although your camera may fit perfectly snug in the back pocket of your Levi’s, that will not shield it from the wear and tear of travel. Look for a case with a sturdy outer cover that will provide protection if dropped on a rock in the Grand Canyon or fallen on when skiing the Alps.  4. Be flashy. Camera flashes are not only for indoors, they can be useful in all types of settings. While shooting outdoors, the sun is a major deciding factor on the outcome of a picture. Its harshness can create awkward shadows on your subject, but using the flash can eliminate these dark areas. If the majority of light is coming from behind the subject, such as a picture in front of a sunset, always use the flash to avoid a dark silhouette. Also don’t get too accustomed to using the flash, cloudy days and early morning pictures have great lighting that can create a soft, natural glow.  5. Get close. Getting close can reveal amazing details of texture or emotion. Pick one element and make it the main focal point of the picture. Then, take one step back and click the picture (most camera’s will take a blurry picture if they’re held any closer). Also, the closer you are the less you need to use your zoom. Zooming results in low resolution and eliminates an interesting angle. So burn those few extra calories by walking right up to your focal point for your snapshot.   6. Get some action. Adding a little glimpse of life to your photos makes them realistic and interesting. Find some small facet of action within your lens when snapping a picture. Children running across a famous street or a bird flying in the sunset of a beach will give the photo an extra charm to make it original and your own.  7. Don’t be vertically challenged. It seems that many of us forget to rotate the camera to its side, but the truth is many things look better vertical. So don’t forget to turn that camera sideways for the Eiffel Tower or anything else that stands perpendicular to the horizon.  8. Don’t be camera shy. While shots of the landscape and historical matter are important to have in your photo albums, pictures that you are in will more likely become the ones you will cherish. If traveling in a small group, avoid take pictures with an outstretched arm that cut off the top of someone’s head. Instead, whenever you see someone administering this technique, offer to take their picture and ask them to take one in return. This method is also extremely rewarding while traveling alone.  9. Learn to use a simple photo editor A few simple clicks of the mouse can turn a good picture into a great picture. Use your computer’s existing software (Mac’s iPhoto works fine) or download a program to get started (Google’s Picasa is a free, basic option that is a good start for beginners). Play with the contrast, brightness, saturation and sharpness to find what you think increases the appeal of a picture.  10. Take a lot of pictures. Make sure to have invested in a large memory card that can hold a lot of pictures, and just keep clicking! The great thing about digital cameras is the ability to delete the bad ones later on. So take as many pictures as you possible can to capture all of the great moments you experience while on your travels.

The Miss List.

I continuously hear my international friends talk about what they miss about home. Kristen misses steak and cheese subs from Grumpy's restaurant in Massachusetts. Nicklas misses thick bread from Sweden. Elizabeth misses pilates classes back at school in Iowa. Mads misses watching Premier League matches and drinking beer on Saturday afternoons in Norway. And of course everyone misses family and friends.

But I haven't thought too much about what I miss. I think I am just too wrapped up in this country and culture that I don't consider all of the reasons I love my home. So here are a few things that help me look forward to returning:

• Brynn & Missy (Of course my dogs are at the top of this list. The rest is in no particular order)
• Spin classes at Mt. Mitchell
  
• Friends that listen to the same music as me
  
• Running with Anna
  
• Having a washer and dryer in my apartment
  
• Sleeping in a bed with multiple pillows
  
• Jumping off of waterfalls in Boone
  
• Recycling (New Zealand may be an extremely green and environmentally aware country, but I have seen very few recycle bins here)
• Having strangers say "Bless you" when you sneeze
• Planning Halloween costumes and parties
  
• Reading a hardcopy of The Appalachian
  
• Leaves changing colors during Fall in the mountains of Boone
  
• Wireless internet
  
• "Simply Orange" juice
  
• Falling asleep with the T.V. on
  
• Wearing sweatpants and hoodies to class
  
• Greek salad and focaccia bread from Tony's (and walking into the restaurant and seeing at least 10 people you know)
  
• Having more than seven television channels
  
• Watching football (Home games at ASU and Redskins games on T.V.)
• Poundtown flag football
• Driving my jeep

Now, once I return home I can't imagine what my list of things I miss about New Zealand is going to look like. It will probably very, very long...

"Aw shit, you're beached as!"

Ever wonder what happens when a whale washes up on a New Zealand beach?

This video is a good opportunity to learn the Kiwi lingo and have a good laugh at its ridiculousness.

Gold in the Land of Oz.

After flying back from Fiji, I couldn't just spend the rest of the break in Auckland, so I joined five others and flew to the Gold Coast of Australia

We stayed for eight days in the Silvershore Apartments where each room had a full kitchen, large balcony and floor-to-ceiling windows.

We devoted the majority of our vacation lying on the beach or by the pool, and spent our nights lounging on the balcony. Most of the nights we cooked for each other and made big family-style meals, but we also indulged in seafood a couple of times.

Dinner out during our first night in Oz

Lounging on the beach outside our apartments

We had to steal this trolley to transport all of our groceries

Marc and Mads enjoying our view from the balcony

Our apartments were located just outside of a beach known as Surfers Paradise, so we all decided it was the perfect opportunity to learn to surf. I snowboard and spent many years skimboarding during family vacations, so I figured surfing would come pretty easy for me. I mean, it doesn't look too hard, right? Well, I was wrong.

After suiting up in wetsuits (it is Australia, but it's also the Winter there) we took our boards to the beach, layed them in the sand and learned all of the typical instructions (except how to stand up). We were finally told to take the boards into the water to catch waves while lying on our stomach or knees. I was frustrated because all I wanted to do was ride a wave while standing up on my board, but I soon learned this would not be as easy as I thought. Steering a longboard through the water while balancing on your knees was enough of a challenge.

After quite a few wipeouts and a belly full of saltwater, we came into shore for more instruction in the sand. We practiced popping up on our feet and learned the art of paddling before taking the boards back into the water. I stood up a few times, but would not consider it a successful morning of surfing. The boys seemed to stand up so easily while the girls continued to flop around in the water.

We all returned for a second lesson later on the week, even though our bodies were still sore from the beatings we took the first day in the water. This time the instructor reinforced the ideas of standing up and paddling, but also introduced turning. Once I was comfortable standing up, turning came pretty easily because you use the same movements as you would on a snowboard.

I felt much more accomplished that second day; it is so rewarding once you're able to comfortably stand up. Marc, Mads and I were so hooked that we even rented boards for a third day of surfing. 

It took a lot patience and determination, so now I hope it's a hobby I'll be able to keep up with every time I am close to the ocean.

Another highlight of Australia was a day trip to the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.

There, we watched multiple shows about dingos, koalas, wallabies (Rocko's Modern Life, anyone?), crocodiles, snakes, birds and kangaroos. We even had the opportunity to feed kangaroos, which was my favorite part. They were very laid-back, food oriented animals with slimy tongues.

• Interesting Kangaroo Fact #1: They are the only large animal that move by hopping
  
• Interesting Kangaroo Fact #2: On land, kangaroos can only move their back legs together (to hop), but in the water (roos are actually good swimmers) they can kick each leg independently.
  
• Interesting Kangaroo Fact #3: As soon as a joey is born, kangaroos will mate again. They are basically permanently pregnant.
  

Koalas are cute and cuddly creatures, except for their razor-sharp claws

Australia is home to the most poisonous snake in the world... 

Allison feeding a little roo

Experiencing the slimy kangaroo tongue

After all of our surfing lessons and bonding with kangaroos, we were able to fit a little experimentation with the Aussie nightlife into our busy schedules. On the last night, we joined a "Wicked Club Crawl" with other students and travelers and explored multiple bars and clubs around Surfers Paradise. 

The group

Elizabeth and me

Lili and Mads with his Michael Jackson glove

So overall, I think we experienced the three most important things about Australia: surfing, kangaroos and Aussie nightlife.

Also, I have now been to five countries in my lifetime: the U.S.A, the Bahamas, New Zealand, Fiji and Australia. And I have a strange feeling that list is going to keep growing and growing...

And one more thing: Is there anyone out there reading?