"My mate, Marmite!"

A travel column for The Appalachian, App State's student newspaper:

http://theapp.appstate.edu/content/view/5602/56/

Vagabond and Beyond

Monday, 26 October 2009

Beer sludge for the open-minded traveler  by KELSEY OHLEGER I think it is safe to presume that college students love beer. They love drinking it: in plastic red cups, out of holes on the side of the can and through homemade funnels. They love playing with it: beer pong tournaments, endless card games and chugging contests. They love promoting it: neon signs hung in cluttered apartments, logos on worn-out t-shirts and embroidered on sweat-stained ball caps. I have recently learned of a way to take this passion a step further by eating it. Well, not necessarily eating beer, but more of byproduct of the drink that is popular here in the South Pacific. It can be purchased at any supermarket and most convenience stores and comes in a variety of sizes of plastic jars with red caps. This New Zealand delicacy is known as Marmite. After beer is brewed, concentrated yeast sludge is left coating the bottom of the barrel. This thick, dark, tar-like substance is then processed and packed with salt, vitamins and extra ingredients before pressed into a jar and sold to kiwis and other daring individuals. My native New Zealand flatmates can’t seem to describe the flavor other than just plain “tasty.” Generously buttered toast with a thin layer of Marmite spread on top is an enjoyable snack that they’ve been eating since they were old enough to chew solid food. But for Americans, it’s not as appetizing and is repeatedly described as “salty” and “bitter.” “It tastes like salty dirt,” Boston native Kristen Keaney said. Keaney has been living and studying in New Zealand for four months and refuses to eat Marmite. “If I need to coax myself into to eating something, I’m not meant to eat it,” she said. I tried the spread within the first few days I arrived here. After smearing about half a teaspoon on a piece of toast with butter, I took a small bite while keeping an open mind. It has a sharp, unusual taste with a slight meaty flavor, although it’s 100% vegetarian. I have continued to eat it this way while remembering the fact that there is some aspect of it that kiwi’s adore. Now, four months later, my thin layer has turned into a solid, gooey coating across a piece of multigrain toast. Like my flatmates, I can’t tell you why I enjoy the spread and or why it is such a satisfying snack, but I like it. I’m just glad I was able to keep an open mind and try it. I think this mind-set is one that every traveler should maintain while in a foreign environment. You do not have to like every entity of that culture, but you will be more apt to enjoy it if you approach an experience without negative expectations.

Picture Perfect

A travel column for The Appalachian, App State's student newspaper:

Vagabond and Beyond

Wednesday, 21 October 2009

10 Simple Tips for Travel Photography  by Kelsey Ohleger  Every traveler should document his or her trip through photography. Whether to share your experience with those back home, relive personal memories or make some quick cash (Google “travel photo contests” and you will not be disappointed), taking pictures, a lot of pictures, should be a priority.  In this technological age with affordable cameras, no one has the excuse to not be a photographer. As long as you have a basic digital camera and the willingness to be creative, your pictures will look like those found in National Geographic in no time.  Just follow these ten simple tips and you will soon have your favorite pictures to last a lifetime.  1. Get acquainted. You don’t have to sit down and read through the massive instruction book, but most digital cameras have creative tools that can give your photos that artistic edge. Skim the text and then play with the functions in your free time. Whether it be on the plane, train, bus, boat or camel en route to your next destination, make sure you know the ins and outs of the camera before your arrival.  2. Always be ready and raring. After hours of becoming familiar with your camera, the battery is most likely running low. Get into the habit of putting your battery on the charger whenever you walk into the room. If traveling overseas, be sure to have outlet adapters so you won’t miss out on any great pics due to a dead battery. And never forget to grab the camera (with the battery inside!) each time you leave your room.  3. Invest in protection. Although your camera may fit perfectly snug in the back pocket of your Levi’s, that will not shield it from the wear and tear of travel. Look for a case with a sturdy outer cover that will provide protection if dropped on a rock in the Grand Canyon or fallen on when skiing the Alps.  4. Be flashy. Camera flashes are not only for indoors, they can be useful in all types of settings. While shooting outdoors, the sun is a major deciding factor on the outcome of a picture. Its harshness can create awkward shadows on your subject, but using the flash can eliminate these dark areas. If the majority of light is coming from behind the subject, such as a picture in front of a sunset, always use the flash to avoid a dark silhouette. Also don’t get too accustomed to using the flash, cloudy days and early morning pictures have great lighting that can create a soft, natural glow.  5. Get close. Getting close can reveal amazing details of texture or emotion. Pick one element and make it the main focal point of the picture. Then, take one step back and click the picture (most camera’s will take a blurry picture if they’re held any closer). Also, the closer you are the less you need to use your zoom. Zooming results in low resolution and eliminates an interesting angle. So burn those few extra calories by walking right up to your focal point for your snapshot.   6. Get some action. Adding a little glimpse of life to your photos makes them realistic and interesting. Find some small facet of action within your lens when snapping a picture. Children running across a famous street or a bird flying in the sunset of a beach will give the photo an extra charm to make it original and your own.  7. Don’t be vertically challenged. It seems that many of us forget to rotate the camera to its side, but the truth is many things look better vertical. So don’t forget to turn that camera sideways for the Eiffel Tower or anything else that stands perpendicular to the horizon.  8. Don’t be camera shy. While shots of the landscape and historical matter are important to have in your photo albums, pictures that you are in will more likely become the ones you will cherish. If traveling in a small group, avoid take pictures with an outstretched arm that cut off the top of someone’s head. Instead, whenever you see someone administering this technique, offer to take their picture and ask them to take one in return. This method is also extremely rewarding while traveling alone.  9. Learn to use a simple photo editor A few simple clicks of the mouse can turn a good picture into a great picture. Use your computer’s existing software (Mac’s iPhoto works fine) or download a program to get started (Google’s Picasa is a free, basic option that is a good start for beginners). Play with the contrast, brightness, saturation and sharpness to find what you think increases the appeal of a picture.  10. Take a lot of pictures. Make sure to have invested in a large memory card that can hold a lot of pictures, and just keep clicking! The great thing about digital cameras is the ability to delete the bad ones later on. So take as many pictures as you possible can to capture all of the great moments you experience while on your travels.

The Miss List.

I continuously hear my international friends talk about what they miss about home. Kristen misses steak and cheese subs from Grumpy's restaurant in Massachusetts. Nicklas misses thick bread from Sweden. Elizabeth misses pilates classes back at school in Iowa. Mads misses watching Premier League matches and drinking beer on Saturday afternoons in Norway. And of course everyone misses family and friends.

But I haven't thought too much about what I miss. I think I am just too wrapped up in this country and culture that I don't consider all of the reasons I love my home. So here are a few things that help me look forward to returning:

• Brynn & Missy (Of course my dogs are at the top of this list. The rest is in no particular order)
• Spin classes at Mt. Mitchell
  
• Friends that listen to the same music as me
  
• Running with Anna
  
• Having a washer and dryer in my apartment
  
• Sleeping in a bed with multiple pillows
  
• Jumping off of waterfalls in Boone
  
• Recycling (New Zealand may be an extremely green and environmentally aware country, but I have seen very few recycle bins here)
• Having strangers say "Bless you" when you sneeze
• Planning Halloween costumes and parties
  
• Reading a hardcopy of The Appalachian
  
• Leaves changing colors during Fall in the mountains of Boone
  
• Wireless internet
  
• "Simply Orange" juice
  
• Falling asleep with the T.V. on
  
• Wearing sweatpants and hoodies to class
  
• Greek salad and focaccia bread from Tony's (and walking into the restaurant and seeing at least 10 people you know)
  
• Having more than seven television channels
  
• Watching football (Home games at ASU and Redskins games on T.V.)
• Poundtown flag football
• Driving my jeep

Now, once I return home I can't imagine what my list of things I miss about New Zealand is going to look like. It will probably very, very long...

"Aw shit, you're beached as!"

Ever wonder what happens when a whale washes up on a New Zealand beach?

This video is a good opportunity to learn the Kiwi lingo and have a good laugh at its ridiculousness.

Gold in the Land of Oz.

After flying back from Fiji, I couldn't just spend the rest of the break in Auckland, so I joined five others and flew to the Gold Coast of Australia

We stayed for eight days in the Silvershore Apartments where each room had a full kitchen, large balcony and floor-to-ceiling windows.

We devoted the majority of our vacation lying on the beach or by the pool, and spent our nights lounging on the balcony. Most of the nights we cooked for each other and made big family-style meals, but we also indulged in seafood a couple of times.

Dinner out during our first night in Oz

Lounging on the beach outside our apartments

We had to steal this trolley to transport all of our groceries

Marc and Mads enjoying our view from the balcony

Our apartments were located just outside of a beach known as Surfers Paradise, so we all decided it was the perfect opportunity to learn to surf. I snowboard and spent many years skimboarding during family vacations, so I figured surfing would come pretty easy for me. I mean, it doesn't look too hard, right? Well, I was wrong.

After suiting up in wetsuits (it is Australia, but it's also the Winter there) we took our boards to the beach, layed them in the sand and learned all of the typical instructions (except how to stand up). We were finally told to take the boards into the water to catch waves while lying on our stomach or knees. I was frustrated because all I wanted to do was ride a wave while standing up on my board, but I soon learned this would not be as easy as I thought. Steering a longboard through the water while balancing on your knees was enough of a challenge.

After quite a few wipeouts and a belly full of saltwater, we came into shore for more instruction in the sand. We practiced popping up on our feet and learned the art of paddling before taking the boards back into the water. I stood up a few times, but would not consider it a successful morning of surfing. The boys seemed to stand up so easily while the girls continued to flop around in the water.

We all returned for a second lesson later on the week, even though our bodies were still sore from the beatings we took the first day in the water. This time the instructor reinforced the ideas of standing up and paddling, but also introduced turning. Once I was comfortable standing up, turning came pretty easily because you use the same movements as you would on a snowboard.

I felt much more accomplished that second day; it is so rewarding once you're able to comfortably stand up. Marc, Mads and I were so hooked that we even rented boards for a third day of surfing. 

It took a lot patience and determination, so now I hope it's a hobby I'll be able to keep up with every time I am close to the ocean.

Another highlight of Australia was a day trip to the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.

There, we watched multiple shows about dingos, koalas, wallabies (Rocko's Modern Life, anyone?), crocodiles, snakes, birds and kangaroos. We even had the opportunity to feed kangaroos, which was my favorite part. They were very laid-back, food oriented animals with slimy tongues.

• Interesting Kangaroo Fact #1: They are the only large animal that move by hopping
  
• Interesting Kangaroo Fact #2: On land, kangaroos can only move their back legs together (to hop), but in the water (roos are actually good swimmers) they can kick each leg independently.
  
• Interesting Kangaroo Fact #3: As soon as a joey is born, kangaroos will mate again. They are basically permanently pregnant.
  

Koalas are cute and cuddly creatures, except for their razor-sharp claws

Australia is home to the most poisonous snake in the world... 

Allison feeding a little roo

Experiencing the slimy kangaroo tongue

After all of our surfing lessons and bonding with kangaroos, we were able to fit a little experimentation with the Aussie nightlife into our busy schedules. On the last night, we joined a "Wicked Club Crawl" with other students and travelers and explored multiple bars and clubs around Surfers Paradise. 

The group

Elizabeth and me

Lili and Mads with his Michael Jackson glove

So overall, I think we experienced the three most important things about Australia: surfing, kangaroos and Aussie nightlife.

Also, I have now been to five countries in my lifetime: the U.S.A, the Bahamas, New Zealand, Fiji and Australia. And I have a strange feeling that list is going to keep growing and growing...

And one more thing: Is there anyone out there reading?

Bula! Bula!

Sept. 6 - Sept. 11:

5 Americans, 3 Frenchies, 1 Canadian, 1 Mexican, 1 Norwegian and 1 Kiwi spent five days in Fiji. Here's what happened...

We we were greeted at the Nadi airport (pronounced Nan-di) with Bula beads and were excited to arrive despite the warm drizzle outside. After hearing it many times, we finally learned that "BULA!" meant "Hello" .... and "Goodbye," "Welcome,"  "Thank You," "Whats Up?" "Bless You!" (after a sneeze), "Cheers!" and basically whatever else you want it to mean (except for "What time is it?" the people here have no need for that. Everyone lives according to "Fiji Time," a concept we quickly became familiar with).

At the Anchorage Resort, we spent our first full day lying in hammocks, playing volleyball in the pool and kayaking in the ocean, all while increasing our risk of skin cancer.

We then took a taxi into the local town to pick up fruits, veggies and other essentials. On the ride, I saw how although Fiji is full of beautiful landscapes with tall green mountains, clear blue water and white sandy beaches, the people who live here lead lives that can't be compared to what visitors see in the resorts. Most families live in small huts in an extreme state of poverty. The Fiji Poverty Report actually states that 25% of the households cannot afford a basic standard of living. They often do not have land or permission to use it, live in very poor houses, and have nutritionally inadequate diets.

Along with the overwhelming amounts of poverty, the country currently has no established government. In April, the Fijian President suspended the constitution and dismissed the judicial system while assuming complete governance within the country.

But despite these hardships, the people always manage to greet you with a loud "Bula!" and beaming smile.

While in town, we stocked up on the cheapest fruits and vegetables I have ever purchased from the local market. Under a large, open-air pavilion, a mass of booths were intricately positioned, each selling a variety of fresh fruits. We also purchased some kava root from one of the booths to make the national drink of Fiji.  It is known to be a sedative, helping the body to relax while clearing the mind. 

Drinking fresh mango juice outside the market

Fijian kids love getting their picture taken

That evening, a man from the resort pounded the sundried kava and mixed the powder in a bucket of water creating a cloudy brownish-grey concoction. He then taught us the traditional way to drink -- reciting "Bula" before and after each bowl along with a series of three claps. The flavor wasn't necessarily bad, but is most comparable to the taste of dirt. After a few "high-tides" (full bowls made from a shelled-out coconut), my lips and tongue were numb, but that's about all I felt.

The next day we took a "taxi" (i.e. ten of us sat in the bed of a small pick-up truck while the other two sat in the cab with the driver) to Natadola Beach which is known to be one of the best white sand and surf beach on the main island. The driver wasn't completely sure how to get there and it took over an hour, so we sang songs in French, Mexican and English to keep our minds off the bumpy ride along dirt roads in the back country.

When we finally got to the beach, we waded through the clear, warm water along the cliffside before relaxing in the sand. I played a little sand soccer with the boys and we finished the day horseback riding down the beach.

A long ride along dirt roads in the bed of a truck leads to singing/screaming French songs

Before going back to the resort, we stopped in a little tourist town on a marina for a seafood dinner with a lot of Fijian beer.

Cheers! ...I mean, Bula!

The next day, Anchorage transferred our accommodation to it's partner resort on Beach Comber Island. There, we ate great Fijian food, snorkeled along the reefs and met other students from all over the world. The boys sailed and played miniature golf while the girls relaxed in the sun. We all spent the majority of our time at a little private saltwater pool hidden near the back of the island. At nighttime, since the island caters to students, it basically turns into one enormous beach party.

We stayed the majority of the next day on the island and caught our boat home early in the evening. The water was a little rough and some of the boys chose to sit at the bow. It was hilarious watching them get slammed by wave after wave over the course of an hour.

That night we drank more kava and regretfully spent our last night together in Fiji before flying back to Auckland the next morning.

Highlights of the Trip:

• Kava
  

We created our own traditional kava ceremony complete with "King Ratu" (a.k.a. Travis), a Queen and servants. Although I didn't get the full relaxing effect of the drink, I laughed the most while sitting outside with our fictitious tribe.

• Snorkeling
  

I have never seen ocean life like I did in Fiji. All of the fish were such vibrant colors and matched the atmosphere of the bright coral. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately?) I did not see any sharks, but spoke to multiple people who did.

• Kayaking
  

We took the kayaks out one evening into the ocean outside the resort. As Mads and I raced Nate/Elizabeth and Mark/Allison along the coast, we tried to smash into one of their boats, but were hit sideways by a wave and flipped out of the kayak in the middle of the water, obviously losing the race. Karma, I guess.

• Taxi Ride
  

At times (like when we were driving over rickety bridges on railroad tracks) we thought we were being taken into the bush of Fiji to never return again, but it ended up being a great experience. Ever since that ride, I've had "Aux Champs Elysées" and other French songs I don't know the words to stuck in my head. 

"Top 10 Reasons to Visit New Zealand"

New Zealand's current Prime Minister, John Key, just appeared on David Letterman's Late Show for the "Top 10" segment.

Check out his jokes about how the country, only "a convenient 20-hour flight away," actually likes America... "unlike the rest of the world."

Getting High.

August 27th - 30th: Climbing Kawaka Bay, Whanganui Bay, and Mangaokewa

I can honestly say that I have enjoyed every minute here in New Zealand. Everything I have chosen to do and experience has resulted in some sort of positive outcome. Even the time we stayed the night in a shabby hostel with no heat in the dead of winter, we now have an amusing story to laugh at and we know it can’t get much worse.

Although I have no regrets, I have recently been thinking a lot about why I came to New Zealand. I have come up with seven main reasons that drew me here.

 1. English speakers
2. The big city life (i.e. Auckland)
3. Country with a prominent media
4. University with an established journalism program
5. Distance that worries my parents
6. Mountains
7. Passion for outdoor adventure

 The last one is what has been bothering me. This country is notorious for its natural world and the availability of outdoor recreation, but I have yet to take full advantage of it. As Mark and I hiked down to the lake last weekend, we talked about how we both felt the same way. Mark took a NOLS trip a couple years back and is also an avid climber, so he holds a large passion for the outdoors. He has kept in contact with Alicia, our Australearn program instructor, who is also a climber. She and her husband spend a lot of time at the local climbing gym and Mark has joined them for a few trips. They recently invited him on a weekend climbing/camping trip and while we were on our long trek back up the mountain, he asked if I wanted to tag along. Although I have only done basic climbing a handful of times, I could not turn down the opportunity.

August 27th

Mark and I stocked up on essential food for the weekend (peanut butter, tuna and bread) and Alicia picked us up on Thursday evening. We drove a couple of hours to meet her husband Forbes and camp for the night. Forbes is an instructor for AUT’s Outdoor Recreation and was in the middle of a class trip. We met about 15 students and four instructors just in time to set up our tent and get to sleep. The group was exhausted from a full day of climbing and they were already in their tents when we arrived. It was only around 10 p.m. but we had no other option than to also get in our tent and try to sleep. Mark had a few movies on his iPod so with a watchband and a little patience he was able to creatively rig it to the top of the tent so we could watch a movie before falling asleep.

August 28th

We woke up early the next morning and drove to Kawakawa Bay for the first day of climbing. It took us about an hour to hike in and once we were there we split from the rest of the group. The class was working on technical aspects so Mark, Alicia and I went off to climb for fun. I had conveniently borrowed a harness from a friend in my building, but it was difficult wearing normal sneakers instead of climbing shoes. Mark and Alicia were both really supportive and found good climbs for a beginner. Climbing may look easy, but getting in the rhythm of pushing off of one leg at a time while thrusting the rest of your body as high as possible is not a natural technique for me. Although I struggled a bit, I eventually made it to the top of each pitch and was able to turn around and see only the clear blue Lake Taupo beneath me. Climbing is so rewarding because each time you actually have an established goal of reaching the top. Getting there makes all of the hard work worthwhile.

 I also really enjoyed watching Mark and the others climb. I had no idea Mark was so experienced and it was a bit of a shock to watch him climb so smoothly and make even the most difficult pitches look effortless. I would love to reach this point where each swift movement falls into the next while keeping a rhythm with little hesitation, but right now I need a lot of practice.

Mark setting me up for the first climb

Climbing at Kawakawa

After a lunch of peanut butter sandwiches followed by more climbing, the class left to go back to Auckland and we headed to our next campsite. We ditched the car and Mark, Alicia, Forbes and I piled into another instructor’s van. Hannes is a “German Kiwi” who also works for AUT Outdoors. He had an awesome road-trip van complete with curtains and a full bed in the back. We drove down a rutted dirt road in the pitch-black and arrived at a Maori Village on Whanganui Bay that permits climbers to camp on their land for a small fee. We ate our tuna sandwiches in the cold and did not hesitate to pitch our tent and get into our warm sleeping bags. Mark and I definitely didn’t need a movie this night due to pure exhaustion from the busy day.

August 29th

When I woke up the next morning I realized we were actually on the western shore of another part of the vast Lake Taupo. We didn’t waste much time and began climbing "Tibia" almost immediately after breakfast. Hannes went up first to set the gear and I followed soon after. I was pretty confused about what we were doing or where we were climbing but I was just told to follow the rope up. Mark let me wear his climbing shoes to make it easier and I began climbing upward. As soon as I reached the crack, I was told to look left and saw a skull surrounded by tibia bones glaring back at me. Ah... tibia now made sense. I continued on with my back to one wall and my feet on the other, and was able to maneuver myself up to a ledge to meet Hannes. He set me up to belay Mark and then continued to the next pitch.

 The final pitch of the climb was the most difficult for me. Again, there were two rock faces to use, one with a large crack in it. They were positioned much further apart than the previous ones which made it difficult for a person with short legs. By jamming my toes in a crack or shoving my arm in up to my shoulder where it wouldn’t budge, I was able to get my back foot up just a bit higher each time and shimmy up the climb. Mark was below helping me find holds and Hannes was encouraging from the top, but at times my back leg would be shaking so uncontrollably from tired muscles I did not think I was going to make it. When I finally reached the top, Hannes told me just to flop my body over the ledge like I was getting out of the pool and I could barely gain enough strength to do that. But once I did, I finally realized what it meant to climb Tibia. We were about 50 meters high looking out on an astounding view of the coastline and sparkling water. Then came the best part: the abseil (or repel). I have now done quite a bit of abseiling and wouldn’t say I am scared of heights, but I have never done anything this high before. I was a little hesitant when Forbes told me to just walk over the edge, but once I did I loved knowing I had full control while descending down the side of a cliff.

Later in the day, more friends of Forbes and Hannes came and I was able to watch everyone complete more difficult climbs while I explored the area. I attempted another climb, but I felt so satisfied after accomplishing Tibia that nothing else could compare.

 That night, three others joined the camp so we talked and laughed over dinner, listened to the didgeridoo and cringed at other’s failed attempts at the instrument.

Hannes and his multipurpose van

Early morning walk to "Tibia"

The skull and bones at Tibia

The view from the top of the Tibia climb

Preparing for the 50 meter abseil (164 feet!)

On the way down

Mark heading down

Alicia abseiling

Follow the big crack in the middle of the rock to the top ledge of the Tibia climb.

And if you look closely, you'll find mark in the middle of another climb.

A view of the beach at the bay

August 30th

We had a little bit of rain the next morning and wet rock is not apt for climbing. Instead of staying as planned, we left the Maori campsite, picked up Alicia’s car and headed to Mangaokewa. Mangaokewa is a steep crag with a large overhang that allows it to stay dry from the rain. When we arrived, there were already some other climbers also taking advantage of the dry area. The whole atmosphere was extremely welcoming and supportive. I felt pretty insecure initially because I was obviously the most inexperienced one there, but it quickly became clear that everyone is willing to help you get up on that rock and succeed. Although my tired muscles did not make climbing easy that day, I just truly enjoyed watching and participating in such a relaxed and encouraging environment.

Multiple climbers at Mangaokewa

Thanks to Alicia and Forbes for letting me tag along!

Credit goes to Alicia for some of the pictures.